Download Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering by Philip L. F. Liu PDF

By Philip L. F. Liu

ISBN-10: 981024620X

ISBN-13: 9789810246204

ISBN-10: 9812794573

ISBN-13: 9789812794574

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A few notable differences between the situation with and without surface tension are listed below, • With surface tension included, it becomes possible that cg > gh. This is easiest seen by considering a series expansion for small kh of cg from Eq. (64c) which yields, cg = ^gh(l+j) (l + ^ ) = 0{{khf). (67) As 7 > 0, we have cg > \fgh in the shallow-water approximation. b Notice that in Eq. 14) of Djordjevic and Redekopp (1977), a printing error occurs: the first term between curly brackets has 2c instead of 2c-y in the numerator.

Narrow-band approximation in nonlinearity only The limited bandwidth for which the NLS and the modified equation (mNLS) as given by Dysthe (1979) are derived hampers the application to real waterwave problems as noted amongst others by Trulsen and Dysthe (1996). These authors enhanced the extent of the bandwidth. Both the NLS and the mNLS equations are derived under the conditions that: lAfcl k 0(s) and kh = 0(s~l) with e = ka . (158) The resulting equation, valid up to 0(e4) has been given in Eq.

So, the knowledge of the amount Nonlinear Modulation of Water Waves 53 of free long waves at the harbour mouth is essential for a good harbour design. The first paper discussing the importance of free and locked waves for harbour design was the one of Bowers (1977). Bowers showed that free long waves were generated because of the difference in the strength of the bound waves across the junction between the two channels. , Mei and Benmoussa (1984), Liu (1989), Liu et al. (1990), Liu et al. (1992) and Dingemans et al.

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Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering by Philip L. F. Liu


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